A Proper English Stroll

Last weekend what started out as a day trip with Nikki to Bath ended up in a rather sudden decision (at the station's ticket machine) to go to Winchester, a town in the southern county of Hampshire. Though ticket prices dictated our change of heart (Bath was 20 GBP more expensive to go to, no laughing matter for my American pocketbook), I think because of the unexpectedness of our trip I was absolutely blown away with Winchester. Having little or no expectations (except having once two years ago been told by a South African/Englishman in Heathrow that I should visit the town) I fell in love as soon as I stepped off the train. It helped that it was about 60 degrees, blue skies, and the leaves were in full fall brilliance but I think I would have loved it regardless. The thing about Winchester is that it is such an old city; I know that there are plenty of old cities in the UK, nearby Runnymeade goes back to the signing of the Magna Carta, but the difference is that Winchester has amalgamated its past and present in a way that doesn't come off as commercially or over the top. The cohesiveness of the two is subtle and classy; for example, when you walk down the high street you walk by many 16th century half-timbered buildings now converted into shops like Cornwall Pasty co, Boots (pharmacy), or pizza parlors. The city has managed to keep up with the demand of tourism and industry while still preserving their local treasures. This is something that I sincerely wish we did more of in America.

High Street

victorian era storefront

16th Century Home now Pizza Parlor

local market

 Both Nikki and I had never been to Winchester before so we decided just to have a stroll through the city. It is not a very large place and we could walk wherever we wanted to go. We started off visiting the Great Hall, the only surviving part of the Winchester Castle, built in the 13th century. Winchester was once a capital of its area of England in Norman and Saxon times and the town reflects the wealth and importance that it once had. It is primarily a cathedral town and the Bishop of Winchester is still a powerful figure in the Anglican church. What is important to see at the Great Hall is the Round Table. It has hung there for 700 years and is still painted with the original paint from the 1300's. It is thought to be the original round table of King Arthur and on it are painted the names of each knight and a picture of Arthur himself. Whether or not you buy into this idea (I am holding out that it is THE original, huzzah!) it is still a beautiful historical piece of work. 

The Round Table

After having lunch at a pasty shop on the high street (again, located in an old half-timbered building beautifully restored and full of old wood and beams inside), Nikki and I took a stroll down to the Winchester cathedral.

Winchester Cathedral

Winchester cathedral is a masterpiece of Gothic and Norman architecture and is the longest cathedral in Europe. It reminded me in bits of the Notre Dame de Paris because of its high ceilings, stain glass, and angular arches and beams that are trademarks of a gothic church. The original church was built in 1079 ad but was then remodeled in 1350-1410 to the current cathedral we have now. Because this cathedral was so important, it did suffer some damage during King Henry VIII's dissolution of the catholic church in England. For the most part the cathedral survived unscathed but the stain glass windows were shattered as well as entombed remains  spewed about the church. The windows were eventually restored in 1660 and the bodies were replaced in the tombs (although it's anyones guess as to who is actually in each tomb). 

Another thing Winchester cathedral is famous for is that it is the burial place for Jane Austen. It also has beautiful wall frescos from the 12th century that have only been recently found which explains their vivid colors.

Jane Austen's burial site

The choir was practicing while I was there which made the atmosphere even more brilliant. 

House where Austen died

After the exhilarating experience of the cathedral ( I could feel the history seeping into my bones; I loved it) we decided to have one last wander up the high street and near the river Itchen. On the little river (more stream-like) were swans and ducks frolicking about and people were slowly meandering along the little path. Who knew that simply wandering could be so rewarding? As we walked back to the train station to make the return trip to Egham, I felt a calm sigh pass through me. The day could not have been more perfect; good company, good weather, and a good location. Nikki and I both left wishing we lived in or near Winchester and were so happy to have accidentally arrived there. I will definitely be going back there during the Christmas season, Christmas markets being a big draw there in December. Winchester is for me every image I had of an old English town and I fell in love onsite. Now if only I could afford the steep price of an old gentrified Hampshire country home, then I'd be set.

on the river Itchen